An Epic Delhi to Srinagar Road Trip via Leh

It all started with a simple thought - let's get out of the city and take a break from work. Where should we go? Goa was an option, but been there just a month ago. That's when Gaurang mentioned his two friends were off to Ladakh in their car. "Let's do that," he said. I instantly said yes! I love to drive and had never been north on a long drive.

So that's how we started. Asked a few people to join us and Neel said yes, why not. Later Swati from Bangalore joined us too. Four friends planning a drive from Delhi to Srinagar via Leh, getting ready to explore some of the most beautiful but treacherous roads in India.

The Plan: 11 Days, 2000+ Kilometers, Pure Madness

We decided to drive from Delhi to Srinagar via Manali, Leh and Kargil. We had 11 days on hand and little over 2000kms to cover. We hired a Mahindra XUV from Delhi and started our journey at 4:30 on a Saturday morning, planning to reach Manali a little post lunchtime.

Day 1: Delhi to Manali - Welcome to Reality Check

Delhi to Chandigarh was a breeze - four-lane highway at 140km/hr. We stopped at a roadside dhaba that Gaurang kept raving about for parathas with fresh curd. But immediately after we crossed Chandigarh, reality hit us hard. The roads became the exact opposite of broad four-lane highways. We now faced loose debris, muck and narrow under-construction roads. In an instant, from 140km/hr we were down to 40-50km/hr. Little did we know then that this was pretty much going to be our speed for the rest of our journey.

We drove for about 12 hours, but when we reached Manali, we weren't tired or exhausted from the long bumpy drive. We were excited to be there!

Manali Nights: Where Bollywood Meets Reality

Johnson's Café in Manali was recommended by everyone, and it happens to be the same place where 'Jab We Met' was filmed - the scene when Kareena is waiting for her boyfriend. Rum and coke with wood oven baked pizza was perfect to beat the cold and rain. To top it up, our very own rockstar Neel strummed his guitar to some commercial tunes.

If you're in Manali, you must visit Café 1947. It's set alongside a river with very casual seating, and the place comes alive as the sun starts to set with live music and hukkas.

At 2am when we headed to our hotel, about 30 minutes away from main town, we encountered our first landslide of the trip, which had happened just a few minutes before we crossed the stretch. Talk about timing!

Day 2: Manali to Jispa - Into the Mountains

Next morning, waking up early to hit the road was a beautiful experience. Lush greens all around us, with hot coffee in one hand and camera in the other, trying to capture nature's beauty.

Rohtang Pass: Our First Taste of High Altitude

The winding roads took us from 2000ft to 13000ft in just a few hours. Crossing Rohtang Pass at 13000ft was our first experience with snow-covered roads melting as the day broke, making the roads slippery. 6-8 degrees cold with slight drizzle of rain and snow under our feet was just amazing.

Sharp U-turns and narrow no-tar roads tested our vehicle well. Backing up our car a few times to let oncoming trucks pass was a first for us. Every time I backed up inch by inch, Swati and Neel in the back seat had their eyes wide open, looking at the tires inch closer and closer to the edge of the road.

At many spots, melted snow would gush down like a waterfall, washing large rocks with it. One eye looking up at the mountains for landslides and another on the road, hoping each turn we took wouldn't put us in a ditch or make us skid over a rock.

A Taste of Home in the Mountains

There aren't many dhabas or roadside stalls to stop for lunch, but we found a small lunch home run by a local family serving simple dal rice and subji. The food was simple and fresh, which reminded Neel of home - with teary eyes he said 'ma ki yaad aa gayi'.

We stayed at a campsite in Jispa, and as nightfall came, the temperature dropped by the hour. It must have been 2-4 degrees and I was freezing. Old Monk was to our rescue each day. Our personal entertainer Neel would start jamming at the first chance he got. The highest point at 18900ft Khardungla also didn't stop him from singing.

Day 3: The Treacherous Roads Begin - Jispa to Leh

Before we hit this road, locals told us about an accident that happened a few days back when a car drove off the road, plunging into the valley. Scary stuff.

We reached Leh and crashed straight into bed for a few hours before heading out to the market. The weather was on our side all the time - slight drizzle, bright sunshine and cold winds in the evening were beautiful.

Days 4-5: Leh to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley

Tourist vehicles aren't allowed in most sightseeing places in Leh and beyond, so we had to hire a local Innova to go to Pangong and Nubra.

Pangong Lake: A Photographer's Paradise

Pangong Lake is absolutely stunning. Blue skies and blue waters complement each other with white snow-capped mountains in the distant horizon. Still water of the lake with few ripples makes it perfect for a landscape shot.

Nubra Valley: Desert in the Mountains

Nubra Valley was a complete contrast to Pangong - mountains surrounding us and sand dunes that made us feel like we were in the middle of a desert.

The two high passes en route to Pangong and Nubra are Changla and Khardungla. At 18000ft, the air is thin and clear, which can easily put you off your senses. But in the midst of chilling winds, a cup of chai and Maggi was all we needed.

Local foods like Thukpa, Khambir and momos were just awesome - warm, fresh and very little spice.

Day 6: Leh to Kargil - Changing Landscapes

Leaving snow-capped mountains and lush green valleys behind, the landscape changed to shades of browns and reds while on the road to Kargil. Winding roads and high altitudes were no worry anymore.

One stretch, however, caught us off guard when we approached a narrow road covered with mud and waterlogged. The car ahead of us took the plunge and tried driving through it, only to find themselves stuck in the mud for good.

For long distances, there are no towns or chai stalls on the way to Kargil. But we did come across a military café that served hot chai and snacks. While you're having chai, don't forget to leave a note.

Day 7: The 10-Hour Wait from Hell - Kargil to Srinagar

When we reached Kargil hotel, people were discussing a landslide that happened the same day en route from Srinagar. Apparently, a large portion of the road was washed out by rainwater. We had to leave next morning but were warned that roads were shut. Nevertheless, we had to try.

As suggested by some, we left early morning but barely covered a kilometer and waited in a 50-car pileup. The wait lasted for 10 hours.

The Sardarji Uncle Who Saved the Day

While we waited, a sardarji uncle from Mumbai traveling with a large group first offered chips to everyone. A few hours later, they opened up a kitchen in the back of their truck, cooking food and making snacks for all. Awesome hospitality that made everyone forget about the long wait.

Zojila Pass: One of the World's Most Dangerous Roads

When they finally let a few cars leave, the roads ahead were something else altogether. Rocky terrain, narrow mountain stretches, and extremely dangerous to be driving post sunset. This was the Zojila Pass, one of world's most dangerous roads.

Our aim was to reach Sonmarg before sunset, which is what everyone recommended, but that didn't happen. Just before Sonmarg town, we were stopped again due to bad roads ahead. Once again, we waited for 3 hours.

Finally, when we reached Sonmarg, there was no way we could have gone to Srinagar at night. By this time, we should have been in Srinagar chilling on our last day of the trip. We had to cancel our flights and rebook for the next day.

The Sweet End: Finally Reaching Srinagar

We finally reached Srinagar, passing the most chaotic landslide, which was well-managed and repaired in temporary condition for vehicles to pass almost safely. Next day we boarded our flights to head back home and get back to our corporate lives.

But there was something about this trip that was special in its own way. Something that we all cherished as memories for a lifetime.

What's Next?

Now I'm looking for the next road adventure. Spiti valley in winter? India to Malaysia? Karakoram highway - China to Pakistan? Or the Silk route - East China to Europe? Let's see...

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If you're planning a similar adventure, remember: expect the unexpected, pack Old Monk for cold nights, and always have a friend who can play guitar. Trust me on this one!