Beautiful Chaos: Why My Most Unpredictable Spiti Trip Was Also My Best

Everyone said no way, not in April. "Wait for peak season," they said. "The roads will be terrible," they warned. But you know me – I don't like crowds, and I definitely don't like doing things the easy way. So two weeks before departure, I booked flights, hired my trusty Mahindra XUV (friends call her Airavata), and prepared for what would become my most chaotic and incredible trip ever.

The Art of Not Planning (Thanks to My Travel Buddy)

I spent hours creating detailed spreadsheets – driving distances, overnight stops, road conditions, potential delays. Every detail was mapped out perfectly. Then I met my travel companion, quite possibly the most spontaneous person I've ever encountered, and all my planning went straight out the window.

Honestly? It was the best thing that could have happened. Changing plans while cruising down winding mountain roads turned out to be way more fun than all my pre-trip spreadsheet wizardry.

First Reality Check: Kasauli at Midnight

Since my friend wasn't used to driving the XUV, I gave him some impromptu driving lessons on winding roads, including the fine art of "dabbake parking" (leaning completely off-road). We reached Kasauli at 11 PM, only to find ourselves knocking on an Airbnb door with no response.

And thus began my eternal struggle with cold-weather travel: finding warm water for a bath. My poor travel buddy had to endure endless grief from me about organizing hot water buckets. Some battles never change!

The Route: Following the Sutlej All the Way Up

April means taking the Shimla route – Kunsum pass from Manali stays shut until June. But what a route it was! We drove alongside the Sutlej river all the way to Kaza, never really leaving its banks. The most magical part was watching the water change colors as the terrain shifted from small villages to gigantic mountains to flat rocky fields.

There's something about driving through mountains on roads that might not exist tomorrow that gives you a completely different kind of high.

Sarahan: When GPS Goes Rogue

After driving as long as we could with tiny breaks for chai and roadside snacks, we reached Sarahan late evening – but only after losing our way for 14 kilometers! We found ourselves in a small, eerily quiet town with absolutely no one on the roads at 8 PM.

Pro tip: Instead of driving 17 kilometers into the interiors like we did, stay on the highway for easier access the next day. This was our first night sleeping under blankets, and with every passing night, the blanket count increased until I was wrapped head-to-toe in thermals by the time we reached Kaza.

Kinnaur: The Treacherous Beauty

We started early from Sarahan, passing through Kinnaur – considered one of India's most dangerous roads. And because I apparently love making questionable decisions, we drove the same treacherous route at midnight on our return journey. Watching out for shooting stones in pitch darkness with only our headlights? Yeah, that made absolutely zero sense.

Nako: The Town That Time Forgot

I've never seen a smaller or more beautiful town than Nako. My friend wandered out in the dark (literally – there was no electricity) searching for accommodation. Surprisingly, we found the best room of our entire trip in this tiny place – a newly furnished motel run by a local guy who spent an hour trying to fix our geyser.

Oh, and once you cross bigger towns like Rampur, prepare yourself: Rajma Rice becomes your staple meal. Every dhaba, every day, for four straight days. Not complaining though – it was actually pretty good!

The Landslide Plot Twist

That night in Nako was the coldest yet, and food was scarce until we found a guy who'd made some potato curry and dal. A few boiled eggs for me, and we were set for another cold night with our faithful companion: Old Monk rum.

Then came the bombshell: the road ahead to Kaza was completely blocked by a landslide. A hundred kilometers away, but completely unreachable by car. Only bikes were getting through. We were absolutely heartbroken – coming all this way for nothing?

The Great Kaza Mission

We spent an entire day in Nako trying to figure out alternatives. That's when locals told us about jeeps operating from the other side of the landslide. So we parked our beloved XUV at the motel, packed everything into one bag (with space reserved for Old Monk, obviously), and prepared for the next phase of our adventure.

Our driver PK became our guide and temporary best friend. But first, we had to cross the landslide area on foot. Seeing the destruction up close was sobering – the road had completely collapsed into the valley. Workers were rebuilding it by hand, standing on edges with no safety gear, using bare hands to lift stones and apply cement. It really put our cushy lives into perspective.

PK: The Hero We Didn't Know We Needed

PK didn't just drive us – he showed us his hometown Chango, famous for growing only apples, and even sponsored our lunch (yes, more Rajma Rice). During one tea break, when he seemed tired, I offered to drive. If you think handling an XUV is something, try driving a Mahindra Camper – it's like piloting a mini truck with diesel barrels stacked in the back!

The best part? There was a lady with two young kids in our jeep, including a 5-year-old who was absolutely shocked to see a woman driving. He told his mother she should learn too. That kid's excitement at seeing a female driver for the first time was priceless!

Kaza: Minus Zero and Staring at Stars (Briefly)

We finally reached Kaza and stayed at Zostel – the only pre-booking we'd made. The place was nearly empty since most travelers had turned back at Nako. The weather was brutal: minus zero, day and night.

We'd planned to sleep under the open sky and stargaze. Well, we kind of did. We sat outside for a few minutes, looked up at the stars, and then rushed back inside! Sometimes reality has different plans than your Instagram dreams.

PK took us to his grandfather's house one day, where we had incredibly milky tea on the rooftop of an old traditional home. The hospitality in these remote towns is something else – so genuine and warm.

The Great Escape: 4 AM in Narkanda

After three days in Kaza, we had to head back to catch our flight. Left at 10 AM, reached Nako by afternoon, took a 30-minute break, and then drove non-stop through the night. We're talking past sunset, through midnight, finally reaching Narkanda at 4 AM.

At 4 AM in a small mountain town, nothing's open. So we parked behind a truck under a streetlight, rolled up the windows, folded down all the seats, and slept in our car. Sometimes you do what you have to do!

Plot Twist: Shimla to Kasol

After sleeping properly in Shimla, we realized we weren't cut out for busy hill stations after days of solitude and silence. On a whim, we drove eight hours to Kasol instead.

What a decision! Kasol is this lovely little place filled with Israeli tourists (hence the nickname "Amsterdam of India"). Jim Morrison Cafe is a must-visit, and the waffles at Moondance Cafe were absolutely incredible.

The Final Sprint

Our adventure was ending. With a 10 AM flight from Chandigarh, we left Kasol at 10 PM and drove through the peaceful night, reaching Chandigarh at 6 AM. There's something magical about nighttime mountain driving – it feels like you're alone in the world for miles and miles.

Why This Trip Changed Everything

This was by far the best trip I've ever done. After every adventure, I'm reminded that this is what I'm meant to do – travel, see new places, explore the unexpected. The unplanned moments, the challenges, the kindness of strangers, the sheer unpredictability of it all.

April in Spiti? Everyone said I was crazy. They were probably right. But sometimes the craziest ideas lead to the most unforgettable experiences.

Until the next adventure...

XOXO