Istanbul: Where East Meets West and Ancient Meets Modern
- Khushnum Ichhaporia
- Apr 8, 2016
- 6 min read
After a brief return to my beloved Cappadocia (yes, I loved it so much I went back!), my Turkish solo adventure culminated in Istanbul - the legendary city straddling two continents. I was initially overwhelmed by its size and energy after the smaller towns I'd been visiting, but it didn't take long for Istanbul to cast its spell on me.
I knew it instantly - 4 days in Istanbul were never going to be enough!
Choosing Sultanahmet: The Heart of Old Istanbul
Istanbul is divided not just between Europe and Asia, but also between old and new. The Asian side is the modern face of Istanbul, while the European side holds the ancient heart of the city. I chose to stay in Sultanahmet, the historic center of old Istanbul.
Built on rocky hills with narrow, winding lanes, this area gives you a serious workout! But the infrastructure is brilliant, and public transport is incredibly convenient once you figure it out. The area is surrounded by old heritage buildings and charming old houses that have now been converted into boutique hotels.
The best part? All the major historic sites - Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace - are within walking distance. It's the perfect base for first-time visitors wanting to soak in the city's rich history.
Where I Stayed: A Home in the Historic Center
I stayed at Hotel Tulip House in Sultanahmet, managed by Omer Oruc. The location couldn't have been more perfect - just minutes away from all the major attractions. After long days of exploration, it was wonderful to be able to walk back to my hotel without having to navigate public transportation while exhausted.
*Contact: Omer Oruc, +90 212 458 84 03*
Must-See Sights in Istanbul
Day 1: Historic Peninsula Marathon
My first day in Istanbul was intense - I started walking at 8:30am and didn't stop until 5pm! But it was worth every step to explore the treasures of Sultanahmet.
The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) with its cascading domes and six minarets is breathtaking. If you're wearing shorts or sleeveless tops, don't worry - they provide wraps and headscarves at the entrance.
Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) was perhaps my favorite. This architectural marvel has served as both a Byzantine church and an Ottoman mosque, and now you can see both Christian mosaics and Islamic calligraphy coexisting under one massive dome. The gold-studded mosaics are simply awe-inspiring.
The Hippodrome was lovely during the day, but even more special in the evening. I happened to be visiting during Ramadan, and at sunset, this large open space transforms into local markets and becomes a food street. Locals would come out with carpets and food baskets, sitting on the grass and streets waiting for the mosque call that signaled the breaking of the fast. The food is laid out and everyone waits for the call from the mosques - it's a feast! Watching families opening their baskets and sharing meals under the twilight sky was a beautiful cultural experience.
Don't miss the Basilica Cistern, the ancient underground water reservoir with its forest of columns. Look for the Medusa heads used as column bases - there's a lot of mythology around why they're positioned upside down and sideways!
Day 2: Bosphorus and Beyond
The Bosphorus Cruise is an absolute must-do in Istanbul. There's something magical about cruising between two continents - Europe on one side, Asia on the other. The European coastline is lined with stunning mansions, many with their own boats and yachts. A boat cruise down the Bosphorus will definitely make you feel cooler in the summer months too!
I opted for the evening cruise, which gave me spectacular sunset views of the city skyline. As we sailed, I noticed people randomly parked along bridges, casting fishing lines into the water. Our guide explained that in Istanbul, people are free to catch their own meal - such a beautiful concept!
Topkapi Palace deserves at least half a day. Once home to Ottoman sultans, it's now a museum housing incredible treasures. A leisurely walk through the vast gardens can make you truly appreciate life in slow motion, away from the hustle and bustle of this busy city. My favorite collection was the antique clocks - absolute works of art!
Taksim Square offers a completely different vibe from the historic areas. This is modern Istanbul, with shopping, dining, and nightlife. I wouldn't say it's anything extraordinary - just a large square with people wandering around - but it's worth experiencing the contrast with old Istanbul.
The Grand Bazaar Experience
The Grand Bazaar is one of the world's oldest and largest covered markets, with over 4,000 shops. It can be overwhelming, but it's an essential Istanbul experience!
I intentionally kept my visit to the Grand Bazaar for the last day, and the usual last-minute shopping resulted in some unplanned excess baggage. Baklava and cheeses are to be blamed for that!
My new friend Ni took me exploring through the bazaar all the way to the Spice Market, which I discovered while walking through the Grand Bazaar. The spice market is a treat in itself - the spices, the colors, the aromas, all inviting you to challenge your taste buds. Since I don't cook much myself, I decided to get myself some coffee - strong aromatic coffee with a mild flavor.
The narrow lanes between these major markets are filled with everything imaginable - spices, teas, local blended coffees, toys, shoes, bags, wedding gowns, and more.
Pro tip: Don't be afraid to get lost here - some of the best discoveries happen when you wander off the main paths!
Where to Eat in Istanbul
Eminonu Pier
This is where the Bosphorus cruises depart, and it's also home to boats that serve as floating restaurants. They cook up the freshest fish right on board, and it's surprisingly affordable!
Grand Vezir, Sultanahmet
For simple, homely Turkish food and delicious freshly brewed coffee, this place is perfect. Great for a quick lunch between sightseeing stops.
Spectra Café, Sultanahmet
Try their beef salad and olive dip! They have both streetside seating and a breezy terrace. Perfect for people-watching while resting your feet.
Pasazade Restaurant Ottoman Cuisine, Sirkeci
If you want to splurge a bit, try the duck here. It's a more upscale dining experience with traditional Ottoman recipes.
Unexpected Moments
One of my favorite memories from Istanbul wasn't planned at all. I had never watched football back home in Mumbai, but one evening I found myself sitting in a café surrounded by passionate Turkish fans, cheering for their favorite teams! The energy was infectious.
Another special moment was walking into a café for some ice tea and ending up in a conversation with the café owner, Cey Cey Bora. We chatted about the city, and when I went to pay, he refused to charge me for the tea. These small moments of kindness from strangers defined my Turkish experience.
The Diversity of Istanbul
Istanbul truly is home to all kinds of tourists and experiences. From the most premium of nightclubs nestled in the middle of the ocean, to food stalls at every nook and corner - this city caters to every taste and budget.
Final Thoughts on Istanbul
Istanbul is overwhelming at first, but give it time to reveal itself to you. It's a city of contrasts - ancient and modern, European and Asian, chaotic and serene - all coexisting in beautiful harmony.
By my last day, I had fallen completely in love with the city. As I wandered around saying goodbye to new friends and favorite spots, I realized that Istanbul had worked its way into my heart, just as the rest of Turkey had.
My trip to Turkey finally came to an end, and I have to mention that it's been an incredibly grand experience. I moved from being apprehensive about traveling alone for the first time, to feeling confident and wanting to do more of the same.
While the historic sites are incredible, it's the unexpected moments - sharing a meal with locals breaking their Ramadan fast, chatting with shopkeepers over tea, or joining football fans in their enthusiasm - that make Istanbul truly magical.
As I returned home to my small apartment and regular job, it amazed me to know how so many people in the world live simple lives with little to ask and so much to give. I'm glad I experienced this journey, and I hope I can experience many more.
If you're planning to visit, give yourself at least 3-4 days here. Istanbul isn't a city you can rush through - it demands to be savored slowly, one çay at a time.
Have you been to Istanbul or are you planning to visit? I'd love to hear your thoughts and questions in the comments below!
XOXO
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